Hyalite Ice: Genesis Area free soloing

The Genesis area is way too cool of an option to have for us Bozeman climbers. In just a couple of hours, you can drive up to the trailhead, climb 3-4 awesome pitches and be back in town no sweat. I have frequented the area so many times over the years now that it is a very comfortable environment for me. I have seen it at its worst (I hope) and I have seen it at its best (?). Its also a great way to walk the dog. I solo G1, come down and grab my gear and my dog. Hike up to G2 and cruise up that. Then on to the Hangover (no pic) that takes me longer to rappel than climb. I watched the sun set from the base of the Hangover. Then I slid down to Lower Greensleeves to wrap it up.

Manfred and G2

Lower Greensleeves

G1

Hyalite Ice: Abandon Ship Project

I went up to Abandon ship to throw in some more bolts but I brought the wrong size socket for the bolts so I couldnt do very much. I was able to add a rap anchor to the approach pitch and cache some gear but that was about it. I walked back over to Cleos where Kyler and Bud were working on that crack line I mentioned earlier and loaned them my unused batteries. I cam back the following Friday with all the correct gear and did some more work. I got up to the high point (solo lead aid) from November but decided that I did not want to proceed anymore. I had everything I needed and a strong head but the rock became scary. I was in a dead horizontal roof and the rock seemed like it was actually a bunch of blocks somehow glued in place waiting to fall. Just like all the ones laying on the ground directly below me. I didnt dare place and then weight a bolt connected to that rock. You would be connecting yourself to too high of a potential for disaster for me. Hence the name Abandon Ship. We will probably go back and try the climber's right side instead of the left side next time.  I bumped in to some friends climbing the Matriarch, Jack and Matt. I tagged along with them and got to top rope to mega classic in all time conditions.

Whit and Nate on Sam's new route.

HUGE bolts. Thanks Conrad!

Kyler on his new route, Whit on 21 stiches to the left and Tate on the Matriarch to the right.

Much less ice now.

Jack on the Matriarch.

Red = Bad, Blue = Next time

Hyalite Ice: Treasure Hunter Pilgrimage

Seeing how I am about the only person who knows where this climb is and that it appears that I am the first person to find it, I figure I better go and climb it at least once per year. So, on a solo day with nothing better to do, off I went. I built a little log bridge out of standing dead trees before I remembered that you cant cut trees down if they are close to a creek. Oops! I dont think anyone will notice or care. The first pitch was pretty covered in snow which means the second pitch is as well. Therefore, I just bypassed them both and hiked up to the 3rd pitch where the real climbing is anyway. I free solo'd the steepest section only to put myself in a terrible avalanche scenario. Pitch 3 mellows out on top and there is the quintessential snow 'slab' to climb through. I luckily got to the trees without incident but every hair on the back of neck was reaching for the sun. Yikes! I have never felt the heebee geebee's up there before but something about that slab had me on edge.

The new bridge.

P1 covered in snow.

Slight of Hand across the valley.

The steep left side with the middle curtain barely visible.

Hyalite Ice: Abandon Ship (Project)

After scouting a crack line on the Cleo's wall the day prior, Kyler and I huffed the requisite heavy packs up to the wall but changed gears quickly when Kyler spied an ice line that we considered 'in' that had never been 'in' before. We found our way to the base and began the development process. Kyler lead the first meandering, all rock, approach pitch up in to a cave, aiding off one bolt. We drilled a two bolt anchor in the cave and I belayed Kyler while he bolted his way towards the ice. I dont remember what the limiting ingredient that day was but we stopped after Kyler had placed 5 bolts on that pitch. We had big plans to come back and finish it but Kyler has not been back since. I would come back later and try and finish it but was unsuccessful. (See later post)

Kyler checking out the Matriarch.

The climb pretty much goes up the middle of the picture.

There's a massive cave to the left of the ice where we set up the start of pitch 2. Pitch 2 would end somewhere above the uppermost ice seen here.

Kyler trying to find a way up in to the cave. I would eventually come back and place a bolt here.

Silhouette bolting.

Gravity defying ice!

Hyalite Ice: Twin Falls; First Ice of the season

I usually get the ice climbing bug about the time it gets cold. Twin Falls is tucked away in a sunless alcove at a relatively high elevation and usually provides the best early season ice in Hyalite. I also wanted to scout a line to the right of Cleo's that Kyler wanted to bolt so I was able to kill two birds with one stone. I fee solo'd a little ways up Twin Falls Right before down-climbing and calling it good. I had planned on v-threading my way off but there was not enough trustworthy ice for me. I walked over to the base of the crack line Ky was talking about a took a couple of photos.

The Cleo's Wall

Twin Falls Left and Right

The steep crack line.

1st backcountry turns of the year on Bridger

Kyler and I skinned up the ramp and skied Wolverine Bowl a couple of times chasing early season powder turns. We found them! I think this was election day and yes, we both voted.

Not a terrible snowpack.

Revenue Village: Special Kay climb day

Trying to squeeze the last bit of climbing before the snow falls, Sam Manfred and I marched in to the village with the hope of climbing all the un-attempted routes left. We went to Bolted Boulder Jr. only to find out that I had installed an anchor, but no bolts! Oops!. We continued up the hill and found Special Kay rock. Special Kay Rock is named after a friend of mine that was hurt in a climbing accident earlier this year. We got to climb 3 awesome sport routes before it began to rain. I ended up getting all the first ascents though Sam was quick to lead them right after me. We started on 'Clap Again' which is the left most route that center punches an incredible slab of feldspar crystals. I giving it a 5.10a 11 bolts grade. The next route we climbed was the middle route 'Positive Outlook' which climbed a lot harder than the other two routes. 5.10d 14 bolts. The last and climber's right most route is called 'Sense of Humor' and climbs at 5.9 12 bolts. The middle and right routes share an anchor. (Pics are all of me, sorry Sam, I didnt take any of you.)

Clap Again

Positive Outlook

Positive Outlook

Sense of Humor

Sense of Humor

Madison River bolting: Acid Wall cleaning and new route 'Baby Bear'

Skipped work to go play in the sunshine. I started by aiding up my two sport routes on the Acid Wall and cleaning them on the way down. The Acid Wall needed a warm-up so I bolted a cool little 5 bolt sport route directly beneath it called Baby Bear 5 bolts probably 5.8ish.

The Acid Wall. The two routes go up either side of the central crack.

The Acid Wall above and the Baby Bear buttress below

Baby Bear more ore less center punches it.

Revenue Village: Special Kay Rock

Special Kay rock has three sport routes that need to be climbed. I dont have the beta because I got a new phone and lost all my notes.

Two routes on this slab.

Two routes on the right slab, one on the left.

The left slab.

City of Rock Idaho

I have been slacking on my blogging lately but I swear I have been active. I have been bolting a bunch of routes out at Maiden Rock (Soft Core Don 5.10a 10? bolts, Calecy Crack 5.8 8 bolts, Wounded Knee 5.11c 6 bolts, Dropped Yer Pocket 6 bolts 5.11a, Cake Hates Me 12 bolts 5.11d, Bolt Ferry 5.7 8 bolts, Bolt Santa 5.9 9 bolts, Bolt Bunny 5.10a 10 bolts). Maiden Rock is a secretive limestone area that I was invited to help develop and Im not at liberty to say much about it. All of these routes have been climbed. I also did a ton of scouting. I checked out a mega cliff on the Missouri; no good. I four wheeled around Wall Mountain; choss pile. Then I cruised the Little Belts and found a ton of beautiful Limestone that I am going to keep secret for the time being.

Sam, Lucas, Bailey and I spent 5 days in the City of Rocks Idaho. This was my second trip there. Sam and I climbed everyday. Friday night we climbed Screwdriver 5.8 sport on Bath rock. Saturday we climbed Steinfells Dome 5.8 7 pitches sport and Jacksons thumb 5.6 4 pitches sport. We climbed some classic 5.10c on Bath rock that night. Sunday we climbed Striped Rock 3 pitches 5.7(?) 3 pitches. Sunday afternoon we climbed Columbia Crack on Elephant rock. Monday we climbed a couple of sport routes on the Breadloves. Tuesday we climbed a couple of routes 5.9 mixed and 5.10 sport on Parking lot rock.

Party Night

Parking Lot Rock

The mixed route on PL Rock

The sport route on PL Rock

Camp with Bath Rock behind.

Me leading Columbia Crack

Top of Steinfells Dome.

Bottom of Steinfells Dome

Top of Striped Rock

All four of us on Jacksons Thumb simulclimbing on one rope. Climbed all four pitches in one!

Following the 3rd pitch of Striped Rock.