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Saturday, August 27, 2016

Tetons: Disappointment Peak; East Ridge

I try to make atleast one trip per year to the Tetons. They're only 4 hours away. However, I didnt make it down there last year so I had some making up to do this year. Sam and I pulled the Gypsy Wagon down to Antelope Flats Friday night and posted up for the weekend. We were hiking up the Lupine Meadows TH before 8am and reached the base of the climb in just over two hours. It is straight up, non-stop switchbacks the entire way. You must gain between 4 and 5K' from the TH to the summit over about 6 miles. Eating lunch at Ampitheater Lake, staring at the 5.7 East Ridge, wasnt exactly putting me at ease but it also didnt scare me away. You can never turn around/bail until you have atleast racked up, tied in and put your shoes on. The last pitch, as viewed from the lake, looked full value to say the least. Pitch 1 was quick and easy and got our stoke factor high. We moved the belay 100ft to Pitch 2, 3 and 4 which are connected/continuous. P2 was super fun though run out. P3 was the same way; great climbing but very run out. Mostly cause I didnt really need to place gear on the easy climbing. Now to P4, the money pitch. There is an escape left to avoid the 5.7 roof crack but I manned up and sent a fantastic, hard, exposed, fun, steep pitch right to the top! It made the climb worth it. The top is literally a 90* lip with the upside a mountain top meadow (of rocks) and the climb falling away beneath your feet. I think its Valhalla canyon to the North of the ridge and its way way down to the bottom of that. We scrambled the last 1000 vertical feet to the summit and rejoiced. It was a great day of overcoming length, duration, steepness, exposure, fear... all that stuff that happens when you alpine climb. We had a perfect view of the Grand Teton and a few folks that were still on the summit. Since it was the park's centennial, we didnt have to pay for entry. Right off the bat Sam and I had the same idea; thats $30 extra dollars going straight to the local pub! We ran down the mountain and made it back to the car in 3 hours from the summit. 11 hours car to car. We were not trying for any speed record mind you. The weather was absolutely perfect so we never felt rushed. Sunday found us working our way home but still climbing. We stopped at Blacktail Butte for a couple of 5.9 sport routes before driving over the pass to Darby Canyon for two 5.10s and a 5.8 sport route. I like Darby a lot, Blacktail will have to wait until I am 5.12 sport shape. We got all we could out of that little weekend trip.
Me leading the second pitch. Route more or less goes up the climber's right skyline.
Disappointment Peak is the smaller, more superficial peak to the left with the Grand massif behind.
The East Ridge of Disappointment. P4 ends at the 90* ridge angle section. Summit proper is the furthest left highpoint.
Looking up the ridge from base of P1.
Looking down P1.
Horn belays were the story of this climb.
The top out.
Getting ready to walk the final talus to the top.

Do the clouds and rays not arch over my head perfectly? Am I an angel!? My mom thinks so...
Looking down at Surprise and Ampitheater lakes.
The Grand, Owen then Sam on the summit of Disappointment.

Nez Perce (pronounced Nay Per Say) and Cloudveil Dome from the summit.
Middle Teton.
Summits of Disappointment and Grand.

Some cool quartz dikes in the granite.
You can just see the summit of Dis. in front of the Grand.

The upper pitches can kind of be seen just over Sam's right shoulder. Thats Teewinot in the background.
The best view?
Nope, this one is better. Why does bacon make everything better!?
The ever present 'where are we' pose. (Blacktail Butte)

Darby Canyon.

Sunday, August 21, 2016

Beehive Peak

Sam has been wanting to climb Beehive for a while now, needing some practice for alpine climbing. I agreed. Its probably the best introduction for alpine climbing around Bozeman. I have summited Beehive atleast 5 times from 3 different routes. One of them being the New World route with Lucas a few years back. I wanted to do a repeat of that route. We got to the base late apparently because there were already two other parties climbing their respective pitch 2s (they were not on the New World route). I lead the first monster pitch without a pause and stopped level with the other two parties. It was kind of fun chatting with people while you were 160' or so off the deck. But I stared and stared above the belay looking for the second pitch but I couldnt make anything appear. I started faintly remembering Lucas doing this pitch with extreme runouts on semi-secure climbing. I wasnt feeling it. My/the escape was 6' to my right but it was clogged with a team of 3 (Worker Bee). We waited but they were climbing too slow so alas, we bailed. Its not fun bailing when there are two cute girls right next to you climbing the hardest(?) route out there. Usually they make you bolder but not today. I very rarely dont reach my objective and that feeling isnt all bad. I really want to go back, do that first pitch again (because its awesome!), then step right and take her to the top. Failure can be motivating. If we had gotten it, Im not sure if I would be back for the next 10 years or so here's to second attempts! 
Beehive Peak is the highpoint way out there left of center.
Looking up P1. Not much gear but solid, fun climbing.

Saturday, August 20, 2016

A break from climbing for some Folfing

Sleeves, Mogue and myself romped around Bohart Ranch all day Saturday chasing a-wall discs (mostly mine). We started on the upper 18 where I proceeded to get schooled and Justin shined. We found a small building with a foosball table (with balls!) so we took a break and played a micro-tournament in the shade. Justin took home the trophy. We got 9 holes done on the lower 18 before we decided it was too dark or we were out of beer. I dont remember.
My cooler at Tee #1.
Ross Peak in the background.

This thing seems new-ish.
We take our fun very seriously...

Saturday, August 13, 2016

Revenue Village: Manfred's Rock; Climbed the last of the unclimbed routes

Sam, Cady, Manfred and I spent a lovely Saturday out at the Village climbing the last of the 6 unclimbed routes on Manfred's Rock. We started on the left side of upper Manfred's with Tear Gas Connection 30m 5.9 mixed which we all climbed. Next was the Un-Thaw Crack 25m 5.9 mixed. Then we sent Chickadee Chirp 5.10a 25m sport(mixed?) and Carlos Danger 5.10a 25m sport. The second to last climb is Party on Wayne 5.8 20m mixed (one bolt). The last climb which shares the anchors with Party on Wayne is Party on Garth, 5.7 20m trad. All in all I was extremely happy with how Manfred's climbed. The routes I thought were going to be hard were actually pretty easy and anything easy at the Village is super fun. The climbing/rock has continued to be a unique experience. There are a couple of variations to these routes that have been cleaned but not climbed on lead yet so I have an excuse to go back.
Me on the FA of Tear Gas Connection 5.9
Ol Stink Eye Sam
Me topping out.

Sam's turn
Cady's turn

This fox and his/her twin were particularly curious for foxes.
Cady thinking about how far she has to walk back for dinner...

Sam after the second ascent of Un-Thaw 5.9

The feldspar crystals keep pretty much all of the climbing out here fairly mild. Im up to somewhere around 60 routes now and maybe 20 of them are 5.10 or harder.