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Sunday, October 28, 2018

Revenue Village: Special Kay climb day

Trying to squeeze the last bit of climbing before the snow falls, Sam Manfred and I marched in to the village with the hope of climbing all the un-attempted routes left. We went to Bolted Boulder Jr. only to find out that I had installed an anchor, but no bolts! Oops!. We continued up the hill and found Special Kay rock. Special Kay Rock is named after a friend of mine that was hurt in a climbing accident earlier this year. We got to climb 3 awesome sport routes before it began to rain. I ended up getting all the first ascents though Sam was quick to lead them right after me. We started on 'Clap Again' which is the left most route that center punches an incredible slab of feldspar crystals. I giving it a 5.10a 11 bolts grade. The next route we climbed was the middle route 'Positive Outlook' which climbed a lot harder than the other two routes. 5.10d 14 bolts. The last and climber's right most route is called 'Sense of Humor' and climbs at 5.9 12 bolts. The middle and right routes share an anchor. (Pics are all of me, sorry Sam, I didnt take any of you.)
Clap Again
Positive Outlook
Positive Outlook
Sense of Humor
Sense of Humor

Tuesday, October 23, 2018

Madison River bolting: Acid Wall cleaning and new route 'Baby Bear'

Skipped work to go play in the sunshine. I started by aiding up my two sport routes on the Acid Wall and cleaning them on the way down. The Acid Wall needed a warm-up so I bolted a cool little 5 bolt sport route directly beneath it called Baby Bear 5 bolts probably 5.8ish.
The Acid Wall. The two routes go up either side of the central crack.
The Acid Wall above and the Baby Bear buttress below
Baby Bear more ore less center punches it.