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Friday, December 7, 2018

Hyalite Ice: Abandon Ship Project

I went up to Abandon ship to throw in some more bolts but I brought the wrong size socket for the bolts so I couldnt do very much. I was able to add a rap anchor to the approach pitch and cache some gear but that was about it. I walked back over to Cleos where Kyler and Bud were working on that crack line I mentioned earlier and loaned them my unused batteries. I cam back the following Friday with all the correct gear and did some more work. I got up to the high point (solo lead aid) from November but decided that I did not want to proceed anymore. I had everything I needed and a strong head but the rock became scary. I was in a dead horizontal roof and the rock seemed like it was actually a bunch of blocks somehow glued in place waiting to fall. Just like all the ones laying on the ground directly below me. I didnt dare place and then weight a bolt connected to that rock. You would be connecting yourself to too high of a potential for disaster for me. Hence the name Abandon Ship. We will probably go back and try the climber's right side instead of the left side next time.  I bumped in to some friends climbing the Matriarch, Jack and Matt. I tagged along with them and got to top rope to mega classic in all time conditions.
Whit and Nate on Sam's new route.
HUGE bolts. Thanks Conrad!
Kyler on his new route, Whit on 21 stiches to the left and Tate on the Matriarch to the right.
Much less ice now.

Jack on the Matriarch.
Red = Bad, Blue = Next time

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