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Sunday, June 10, 2018

!@#$%^ Rocks with Kyler

Kyler took Manfred and I out to his secret limestone sport climbing spot, which I have climbed at before, for a weekend of climbing and bolting. We spent Saturday climbing and Sunday bolting. I climbed a bunch of 5.10s which were all super fun and tried a 5.12 power lieback sport route that I didnt get but flirted with. Kyler spent some time on some 5.13 that he has been projecting. The weather was kind of crummy on Sunday so out came the drills. The night before we had found some new crags to bolt. We went to the first and set up shop. I produced a 9(?) bolt 5.10 and Kyler added a 5.12(?) sport route just to the right. I think the wall is called the White Wall. It got really cold so we spent the rest of the day building a trail across a scree slope to the next buttress on the list of to-dos.
A bad pic of one of the 5.10s I climbed.
Kyler is actually using a backcountry ski probe to clip the next bolt in this pic.
The 5.12 I almost got.
Excellent limestone. A bunch of fun routes on this wall.
The White Wall
Cant really see the new routes but mine more or less center punches it and Kyler's is a few feet to the right.

Friday, June 8, 2018

Riot Rock climb day

Kyler, Manfred and I planned on camping and climbing at Kyler's hush hush area for the weekend and since Riot Rock is on the way and quickly accessed, we hit it up on the way out of town. We smoked and gopher with my front tires, rear tires and even the camper right before the 35mph corner which inspired the name Gopher Pancake for one of the routes. I lead the right route which I named Gopher Pancake 5.8 9 bolts to chains; extremely fun steep climbing ameliorated by consistent jugs for your hands and feet. Kyler went first on Carnivore Salad 5.9 11 bolts and sailed right through it. I lead it after he did. Another spectacular climb for the area.
Gopher Pancake
Carnivore Salad

Wednesday, June 6, 2018

Bear Canyon climbs with Emily

Emily, Manfred and I found a couple of hours to get in some quick climbing so automatically we went to Bear Canyon. We lead everything and got some great B12 exposure. We climbed on the Under the Sea (?) wall.
Emily sussing out the moves on the left most route. We also climbed a couple of route immediately to the right.

Tuesday, June 5, 2018

Climbed the rest of my routes out at Natural Bridge

Kyle and I went out to Natural Bridge (again) and I got to climb the rest of the routes I bolted and Kyler finally sent his Whitewater Project. We climbed Drink Me Pretty, Bold Statement, Spread Eagle and Send Temps but not the easy and already climbed Float Your Boat. Im sure the GreyStone Walls will quickly become Natty B classics.

Sunday, May 27, 2018

The Village: Finished the Shoulder Blade

Finally got a development day out in the Village. After finding the cache that has been out there all winter, I went to work. Two more mixed lines were born. To the right of Larry, Curly and Mo (Mo got 2 more bolts to open up the direct start) is a 4 bolt to tiny trad gear route that will probably climb about 5.8-5.9 'Sippy Cup.' Then down (West) is a route that starts with a low angle crack to 7 bolts to chains that will climb about 5.8-5.9 'Rhodesian Sand Platter.' Afterwards, I moved the cache over the the Crack House and relocated one of Lucas and I's original routes that I lead and Lucas gave a 5.11.
Sippy Cup pre bolts

Rhodesian Sand Platter starts lookers left of Manfred and finishes up below the roof.
One of the original lines from 7-8 years ago.

Thursday, May 24, 2018

Madison Canyon Winter Wall area is getting bigger

The rock at the 35mph corner on the Madison river has always intrigued me. Its very colorful and has bizarre features. It looks like it should be a rock climbing paradise. I certainly did not discover this rock as it has many numerous established climbs some of which I have climbed. I guess I dont like it very much because even with a short approach, I dont find myself there very often. But I have climbed excellent climbs, I just had to dig through the not so good ones. I am also aware of the huge potential for growth. With that in mind and a back pack full of bolts, I went out there and found 4 insanely fun looking routes. Two of them have been fully bolted on a wall I call the Riot Rock which is the left most buttress. The left line is 5.9 11 bolts to chains 'Carnivore Salad.' The right line is 5.8 9 bolts to chains 'Gopher Pancake.' After bolting those, I moved to the middle of the crag and started on two more lines (I am two bolts up both of them; cant be bolted on rappel). Im calling this wall the Acid wall because it is definitely the weirdest looking rock I think I have ever seen. The weirdness of the rock on all four lines is going to make for great sport climbing.
The Riot Rock
Bolt line of Carnivore Salad. Gopher Pancake is ~15 to the right of the bolts.
The Acid Wall
Riot Rock
Riot Rock
Riot Rock is the left most buttress that looks worthy of climbing. The Acid Wall is mixed in the mess in the far right of the pic.

Friday, May 11, 2018

Last morning in Boulder, went back to Eldo

With an ominous forecast and the dark clouds to back it up, we knew we only had one last morning to climb. We went back to Eldo and climbed the Windy Ridge 5.8 3 pitches up the Windtower. I linked the first two pitches and we skipped the 3rd low angle summit pitch. Pretty spectacular climb. I guess thats what you get when you go to a new area and climb nothing but classics! We finished with a couple of more classic single pitch routes on the Wind Tower. I will definitely be coming back to Boulder!
Looking down the Windy Ridge.
The Bastille across the way.