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Sunday, October 28, 2018

Revenue Village: Special Kay climb day

Trying to squeeze the last bit of climbing before the snow falls, Sam Manfred and I marched in to the village with the hope of climbing all the un-attempted routes left. We went to Bolted Boulder Jr. only to find out that I had installed an anchor, but no bolts! Oops!. We continued up the hill and found Special Kay rock. Special Kay Rock is named after a friend of mine that was hurt in a climbing accident earlier this year. We got to climb 3 awesome sport routes before it began to rain. I ended up getting all the first ascents though Sam was quick to lead them right after me. We started on 'Clap Again' which is the left most route that center punches an incredible slab of feldspar crystals. I giving it a 5.10a 11 bolts grade. The next route we climbed was the middle route 'Positive Outlook' which climbed a lot harder than the other two routes. 5.10d 14 bolts. The last and climber's right most route is called 'Sense of Humor' and climbs at 5.9 12 bolts. The middle and right routes share an anchor. (Pics are all of me, sorry Sam, I didnt take any of you.)
Clap Again
Positive Outlook
Positive Outlook
Sense of Humor
Sense of Humor

Tuesday, October 23, 2018

Madison River bolting: Acid Wall cleaning and new route 'Baby Bear'

Skipped work to go play in the sunshine. I started by aiding up my two sport routes on the Acid Wall and cleaning them on the way down. The Acid Wall needed a warm-up so I bolted a cool little 5 bolt sport route directly beneath it called Baby Bear 5 bolts probably 5.8ish.
The Acid Wall. The two routes go up either side of the central crack.
The Acid Wall above and the Baby Bear buttress below
Baby Bear more ore less center punches it.

Saturday, September 8, 2018

Revenue Village: Special Kay Rock

Special Kay rock has three sport routes that need to be climbed. I dont have the beta because I got a new phone and lost all my notes.
Two routes on this slab.
Two routes on the right slab, one on the left.
The left slab.

Tuesday, September 4, 2018

City of Rock Idaho

I have been slacking on my blogging lately but I swear I have been active. I have been bolting a bunch of routes out at Maiden Rock (Soft Core Don 5.10a 10? bolts, Calecy Crack 5.8 8 bolts, Wounded Knee 5.11c 6 bolts, Dropped Yer Pocket 6 bolts 5.11a, Cake Hates Me 12 bolts 5.11d, Bolt Ferry 5.7 8 bolts, Bolt Santa 5.9 9 bolts, Bolt Bunny 5.10a 10 bolts). Maiden Rock is a secretive limestone area that I was invited to help develop and Im not at liberty to say much about it. All of these routes have been climbed. I also did a ton of scouting. I checked out a mega cliff on the Missouri; no good. I four wheeled around Wall Mountain; choss pile. Then I cruised the Little Belts and found a ton of beautiful Limestone that I am going to keep secret for the time being.

Sam, Lucas, Bailey and I spent 5 days in the City of Rocks Idaho. This was my second trip there. Sam and I climbed everyday. Friday night we climbed Screwdriver 5.8 sport on Bath rock. Saturday we climbed Steinfells Dome 5.8 7 pitches sport and Jacksons thumb 5.6 4 pitches sport. We climbed some classic 5.10c on Bath rock that night. Sunday we climbed Striped Rock 3 pitches 5.7(?) 3 pitches. Sunday afternoon we climbed Columbia Crack on Elephant rock. Monday we climbed a couple of sport routes on the Breadloves. Tuesday we climbed a couple of routes 5.9 mixed and 5.10 sport on Parking lot rock.
Party Night

Parking Lot Rock

The mixed route on PL Rock
The sport route on PL Rock
Camp with Bath Rock behind.
Me leading Columbia Crack
Top of Steinfells Dome.
Bottom of Steinfells Dome
Top of Striped Rock
All four of us on Jacksons Thumb simulclimbing on one rope. Climbed all four pitches in one!

Following the 3rd pitch of Striped Rock.

Tuesday, July 31, 2018

Hyalite Canyon: Pallisade Perch

I have been eyeballing this chunk of rock for years. You cant help but stare at it if you have ever been in the Pallisade Falls parking lot. It looms above. So one day I scouted it and decided it needs bolts. I came back with everything but a harness; real dumb. Thats a long steep hike! I placed one bolt from a high stance just to see how the 'rock' was and was kind of 50:50 on whether or not I would hike back up. Back in the parking lot, however, it was just screaming climb me so I came back with a harness. I placed four more 4"x1/2" sleeve bolts before deciding that I like my back and ankles just the way they are. I thought the 'rock' might get better as I climbed but after reaching what appeared to be the good stuff, it was still crap. As a developer, if you cant trust the bolts, then wtf are you doing? I reached the wtf am I doing and bailed. At least I know I tried and the curiosity is at bay. Found a sweet bivy cave on the way down.


This face is about 70m tall. Now has 5 bolts and a bail biner on it.
Looking up from the parking lot.

Wednesday, July 18, 2018

Greek Creek Buttress with Sam

I finally climbed some low hanging fruit; the Greek Creek buttress. Absolutely one of the best 5.6 routes I have ever climbed.





Saturday, June 30, 2018

Revenue Village: The CrackHouse and Bolted Boulder Jr.

Finally had some time, some bolts and some hangers to work on the Village. I cleaned and bolted a mixed line to the left of the CrackHouse Original route climbed by Lucas and I 7-8 years ago. A bolt protects the steep start to get you started in a protectable crack. Climb the crack until it becomes choked with raspberry bushes. I didnt have the heart to rip out 10+ft of raspberries so I placed some bolts in their honor. The Raspberry Crack as I guess Ill call it terminates in a large roof, bolt protected then sends the upper face on bolts. I moved around and up the hill and found a huge beautiful boulder that needed to become a sport route. So I bolted it with 4-6 bolts. I dont remember. En route, I also found a UFO or Top shaped boulder that looks like a blast.
Rope line is just right of Raspberry Crack.

Tall enough to walk through that gap looker's left.
Bolted Boulder Jr.