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Saturday, June 27, 2015

Morning Glove climb day

Sam, Manfred and I went out for a climb day on the routes that took me 7 days to find, bolt and clean. Im pretty happy with how things are turning out. We climbed all the routes on the Thumb except for Axolotl chimney (previously called Pillow Fight cause I couldnt remember our name for it). Aristocrack 5.7 all gear, Love Crack 5.8 all gear, BumHug 5.8 gear to 4 bolts back to gear, Obnoxious Weeds 5.9 11 bolts and Cadillac Poops 5.10 1 cam to 11 bolts. All these routes end at one of two sets of anchors. Above each set of anchors is another pitch going to the top. FAF1, FAF2, Aristocrack and Love crack all share an anchor with an all gear upper pitch that will go at 5.6. Axolotl, Cadillac Poops, Obnoxious Weeds and Bumhug all share an anchor. The second pitch has one bolt above the anchor to an awesome crack finishing on chains. Everything on the the thumb is 30m. The upper pitches are about 25m. Im a huge fan of all the routes and will give them all 4 or 5 stars. I still have some unclimbed routes on this rock that I cant wait to get my hands on.
The rope is running up BumHug.
Looking up Obnoxious Weeds with BumHug to the right and Cadillac Poops to the left.

Sam on Cadillac Poops.

All smiles after sending 5 first ascents in a day!
So dry out there that even the mushrooms are cracking. 

Saturday, June 20, 2015

Revenue Village: Morning Glove; The Thumb (right side) is done!

Got to spend a day wrapping up one of the biggest and best spires in the Village. With an arsenal of wire brushes, regular brushes and a nut-tool I scrubbed that rock clean! It took a couple of bolts to finish BumHug and the rest of the day was spent getting covered in dirt. The fine dirt was sticking to my sunscreen and I looked very peculiar when I was all done.
Our anchor from 5 years ago! I left it for nostalgic reasons. 
MUU style. It seems like your beer is always empty when its 90*!
That old cord anchor is exactly 30m up this lower chunk. You can see my rope running through the roof/notch on the upper pitch. 
A pic of one of the many perfect parallel cracks out there. That crack is called FAF1 and we climbed it years ago on our maiden voyage to the glove. 
There are 2 awesome continuous cracks running up the slab starting at the base of the tree. 

Thursday, June 18, 2015

The Village: Morning Glove; right side development

Saturday I ran out to the village with 30 more bolts and hangers thinking that battery power would be my limiting ingredient but my Bosch is a beast and I got every bolt I had sunk into the rock. I got Radventurous done (60m 7 bolts and a rack), Tradventurous partially cleaned (60m crack, doubles on the small stuff), Cadillac Poops (30m 1 #1or2 cam and 11 bolts), Obnoxious Weeds (30m 11 bolts) and BumHug (x2 30m pitches mixed). This spire is quickly becoming the best craig in the Village hands down. Radventurous will go at 5.10 but everything else is easier, though sustained. I want to finish BumHug (as close to Humbug quality granite cracks in MT that I have found) and clean a couple more 30m cracks climber's right and this bad boy will be ready for the crowds (which I think it deserves). Pillow Fight is the obvious (but not pictured in this post) offwidth that Lucas, Travis(?) or Mike(?) and I climbed about 5 years ago. Ill have to sort through the archives to check on whether we named it or not but Pillow Fight seems appropriate cause Lucas was wearing his Patty Puffy when he lead it and scraping through the face crystals opened a few holes in the jacket and the feathers never stopped falling on us.
A pretty place to spend a day.
This photo doesnt do this crack justice. Its perfect and runs the length of the face. It has a lil shrubbery but not for long. Its parallel and deep.
The lower right side of the glove has 6 awesome 30m routes, 5 will probably be 5 star! 
One of my new favorites that I didnt get a chance to finish. The flakes/crack are bomber!

Thursday, June 4, 2015

The Village: Morning Glove; more new routing

Two more days with the brush and drill produced 5 more routes out at the Village. I finished JP Memorial which cam out as a 40m 5.8 10 bolts and gear (and a slung tree) to chains. Climber Quotes is another 40m 5.8 (maybe 5.9) 7 bolts and gear to chains. R, Like Rain is also a 40m 5.8 (maybe 5.7) 4 bolts and gear to chains. There are two ways to finish R, Like Rain. Sunday produced two more routes: Bear Aware and The Better Half. Bear Aware is 30m 10 bolts and one medium/small cam to chains, somewhere around the 5.8 realm. The Better Half is the bottom half of a crack system running to the top but the top half is full of shrubbery and clearly a water run-off crack. It'll go at 5.9-5.10 (not sustained) 30m and shares two bolts with Bear Aware with chain anchors. I started work on another 60m route climber's right but ran out of drill juice. Sam showed up later in the day and we got some top roping done on JP's and C.Quotes and were really happy with how the routes turned out. One more weekend and the Morning Glove should be all done! It will have the most routes of any rock out there so far.

Left to right: Climber Quotes (cant really see), JP Memorial (roughly center of photo) and R, Like Rain (can only see top half)

Bear Aware is roughly the rope line and The Better Half is the crack to the right.
There are 8 routes in this photo, 6 are 60m tall!
An unfinished 60m project.