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Saturday, June 18, 2016

Revenue Village: The Tapioca effect (City Limits)

Having been in development mode for a while, it was time for a big climb day. I finished the City Limits Buttress late last season and had not climbed a few routes yet so I lassoed Kyler and off we went. We started on the far left side and worked our way right. I started off by climbing a thin but low angle crack I call 'Chip Shot 5.8 20M' small gear and one bolt. Next we sent 'Custom Cushions 5.8 35M' bolts to s/m cams back to bolts. MC Tapioca pulled the roof in a different spot (climber's left) creating a more difficult variation. After a beer or two we then sent 'Hemorrhoid Ice Breaker 5.8 40M' mostly bolts but intermittent s/m gear. Again, MC Tapioca added a harder variation to the route, this time at the start. The last FA of the day was 'Crossfader 5.8 40M' s/m gear and a couple of bolts. Im pretty happy with the routes. Crossfader wasnt exactly hard or classic but it will do. Kyler then lead Black Angus Orchestra (5.9 35M s/m gear and two bolts) which I followed and Trooper Down (5.10a smal gear to bolts) to wrap up the day. I had never used an 80M rope but they do exist and Kyler brought one. I set up this buttress to be walked-off so the anchors are not in very good places for top roping or lowering FYI. I might go back and put some new anchors lower down on the rock to save your ropes. 6 hours later we had climbed all but one route there (Cattle Scratch Boogie).
H.I.Breaker is the left rope line, Crossfader is the right.
Dude, just shut up would ya.
The Tapioca effect on H.I.Breaker.
Did I mention it was so windy that we couldnt communicate? Pretty place to hang out though 'ey? 'Big Sky' country.
Kyler on Trooper Down.
The hike in was sunny and WINDY!
Me on the FA of H.I.Breaker
The hike in and out is gorgeous (and I know I have said that before). Not too many places I know of where you can see the Madison Valley and Gallatin Valley at the same time (not the case in this photo).