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Monday, June 12, 2017

Village climb day: FAs on the Diamond and Ol' Two Tier (upper pitches)

Sam, Manfred and I got to spend the day climbing new routes in the Village, again! We went straight to the freshly bolted Diamond first. I lead Cheese Grader 5.8 25m 5 bolts to 2 or 3 (.5,.75,1) cams depending on your comfort. Sam took the lead on Hometown Heroes but was unable to get to the top with out sitting at the crux. I also had to sit and figure out the crux; Hometown Heroes 5.10d 9 bolts 25m. Next, we moved over to Ol' Two Tier to climb the unclimbed second pitches we put in a couple of seasons ago. Sam got the sharp end for both of the 60m first pitches, Up and Adam 5.7 as well as Schwabby's Access 5.8. I have climbed them both a couple of times. Sam lead the short second pitch he bolted and I lead the second pitch I put anchors on but no bolts. I thought I was going to bolt it but its really easy, protectable-but-run-out climbing. 6 pitch day, 4 of them unclimbed. Not bad.
Sam on Hometown Heroes (above crux)
You can barely see Sam way up on Up and Adam.
Sam on Up and Adam. Schwabby's Access goes up the ramp ~15' to the left.
Sam cleaning the anchor on top of P2 of Up and Adam.
Sometimes its easy to flake your rope when you are not 300' off the ground.

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