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Saturday, August 1, 2015

Revenue Village: City Limits Buttress; Climb day

Sam, Jeff, Manfred and I all went out to the Village to climb 3 routes I just cleaned and bolted the weekend prior. I lead Black Angus Orchestra without any issues besides the shit-eating grin on my face! The crux is the bottom quarter of the route with some intimidating looking ceilings but there are cracks and holds that take away the difficulties, I give it 5.9 40m two bolts and gear. Cattle Scratch Boogie shares the ceiling start with B.A.Orchestra then takes the the low angled, uber-featured face to the top with bolts and one or two cams, 5.9 only because of the start then 5.7 to the top. After that I lead Trooper Down with a couple of cams to bolts back to gear and one last bolt before the top, 5.9 40m. They are all 5-star routes in my book! I knew they were going to be fun but they surpassed my expectations. I cant wait to develop the rest of this rock because its got a bunch more routes that look just as good! This was Jeff's first rock outing in a season or two and his first trip to the Village; I think he was rather impressed!

Me sending the ceilings; left of the first and right of the second. 
My hands are in a textbook hands crack with bomber gear right where it gets a lil airy. This is lap two on TR.
If you are going to climb with half-ropes you might as well climb in tandem if you have a group of 3. 
Looks like we are a ways up there!
Me on the FA of Trooper Down. 
Its gear until you get to this face that Im on where you'll find a few bolts.



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