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Monday, March 17, 2014

Upper Genesis Exploration

Sam and I, after a (Mc)Alpine start, broke trail up to G2 (WI3) for Sam's first time. G2 was quick, easy and fun. We then walked by The Golden Mean (WI4 M4-5?) but it was blown out. So we trudged up the hill to Through Four More (WI4 M4-5?). It was not touching down but I thought I saw a way up it. After pulling handful after handful of rock off, I was able to get a piton in. Since I had some gear in and I was feeling good, I made a big move to the ice and with one swing, broke a few feet off the bottom. Luckily Sam was able to dodge it. Defeated, I had Sam lower me off the pin, which decided to pop out when I was just a couple feet off the ground. Next, we hiked over to the Hangover (WI3) and sent it to the very top ~36M (my 70M didnt put one of us on the ground). We relocated the axe we dropped in the snow on the traverse over and headed home.
Looking down at Sam from the belay on top of G2.
The Golden Mean 
Just to give you an idea of how high up you get when you are marching around upper Genesis.
Through Four More. I tried to climb just left of the moss. This is before the attempt. The ice on the left side is now about level with the top of the rock in the center of the flow.
The Hangover is so big I think its a full grade easier.

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