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Thursday, May 24, 2018

Madison Canyon Winter Wall area is getting bigger

The rock at the 35mph corner on the Madison river has always intrigued me. Its very colorful and has bizarre features. It looks like it should be a rock climbing paradise. I certainly did not discover this rock as it has many numerous established climbs some of which I have climbed. I guess I dont like it very much because even with a short approach, I dont find myself there very often. But I have climbed excellent climbs, I just had to dig through the not so good ones. I am also aware of the huge potential for growth. With that in mind and a back pack full of bolts, I went out there and found 4 insanely fun looking routes. Two of them have been fully bolted on a wall I call the Riot Rock which is the left most buttress. The left line is 5.9 11 bolts to chains 'Carnivore Salad.' The right line is 5.8 9 bolts to chains 'Gopher Pancake.' After bolting those, I moved to the middle of the crag and started on two more lines (I am two bolts up both of them; cant be bolted on rappel). Im calling this wall the Acid wall because it is definitely the weirdest looking rock I think I have ever seen. The weirdness of the rock on all four lines is going to make for great sport climbing.
The Riot Rock
Bolt line of Carnivore Salad. Gopher Pancake is ~15 to the right of the bolts.
The Acid Wall
Riot Rock
Riot Rock
Riot Rock is the left most buttress that looks worthy of climbing. The Acid Wall is mixed in the mess in the far right of the pic.

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