The Village: Finished the Shoulder Blade

Finally got a development day out in the Village. After finding the cache that has been out there all winter, I went to work. Two more mixed lines were born. To the right of Larry, Curly and Mo (Mo got 2 more bolts to open up the direct start) is a 4 bolt to tiny trad gear route that will probably climb about 5.8-5.9 'Sippy Cup.' Then down (West) is a route that starts with a low angle crack to 7 bolts to chains that will climb about 5.8-5.9 'Rhodesian Sand Platter.' Afterwards, I moved the cache over the the Crack House and relocated one of Lucas and I's original routes that I lead and Lucas gave a 5.11.

Sippy Cup pre bolts

Rhodesian Sand Platter starts lookers left of Manfred and finishes up below the roof.

One of the original lines from 7-8 years ago.

Madison Canyon Winter Wall area is getting bigger

The rock at the 35mph corner on the Madison river has always intrigued me. Its very colorful and has bizarre features. It looks like it should be a rock climbing paradise. I certainly did not discover this rock as it has many numerous established climbs some of which I have climbed. I guess I dont like it very much because even with a short approach, I dont find myself there very often. But I have climbed excellent climbs, I just had to dig through the not so good ones. I am also aware of the huge potential for growth. With that in mind and a back pack full of bolts, I went out there and found 4 insanely fun looking routes. Two of them have been fully bolted on a wall I call the Riot Rock which is the left most buttress. The left line is 5.9 11 bolts to chains 'Carnivore Salad.' The right line is 5.8 9 bolts to chains 'Gopher Pancake.' After bolting those, I moved to the middle of the crag and started on two more lines (I am two bolts up both of them; cant be bolted on rappel). Im calling this wall the Acid wall because it is definitely the weirdest looking rock I think I have ever seen. The weirdness of the rock on all four lines is going to make for great sport climbing.

The Riot Rock

Bolt line of Carnivore Salad. Gopher Pancake is ~15 to the right of the bolts.

The Acid Wall

Riot Rock

Riot Rock

Riot Rock is the left most buttress that looks worthy of climbing. The Acid Wall is mixed in the mess in the far right of the pic.

Last morning in Boulder, went back to Eldo

With an ominous forecast and the dark clouds to back it up, we knew we only had one last morning to climb. We went back to Eldo and climbed the Windy Ridge 5.8 3 pitches up the Windtower. I linked the first two pitches and we skipped the 3rd low angle summit pitch. Pretty spectacular climb. I guess thats what you get when you go to a new area and climb nothing but classics! We finished with a couple of more classic single pitch routes on the Wind Tower. I will definitely be coming back to Boulder!

Looking down the Windy Ridge.

The Bastille across the way.

The First FlatIron

I finally got to climb one of the world famous Flatirons! Emily and I went straight for the big bad boy, the East Face of the First Flatiron 5.6 10 pitches. The first pitch is probably considered the crux and I placed some gear but after that, we just climbed one 70m rope length at a time to a new anchor with no gear in between. We caught up to a guided party near the ridge but were able to pass and were back on the ground within an hour-ish. I think we both agreed that if we came back, we would leave the ropes in the car. Probably one of my favorite climbs so far; beautiful views and super fun, solid and secure climbing.

Left to Right: 3rd, 2nd and 1st FlatIrons

Top of the 4th pitch ledge. Special ledge ;)

Looking North from the ridge (top of p6?)

Not a bad view of Boulder.

The Tennis Sweater pose

Boulder CO

First trip to Eldorado Canyon

Emily, Manfred and I had a week to go rock climbing wherever we wanted. The original plan was to go to Red Rocks NV but the forecast was way too hot. Neither of us had climbed out of Boulder so we decided to go and check it out. Our first stop was in Boulder Canyon where we climbed on the Dome(?). We climbed the East face and then the Owl Crack(?) before the sun set. The next day we went to Eldorado Canyon and headed straight to the Bastille to climb the Bastille Crack 5 pitch 5.7. The Bastille Crack could be one of the most famous and most climbed routes in the world. Certainly in America. I lead every pitch and we made it to the top without a hiccup. Its as good and fun as everyone says it is. We hiked back to the truck for some lunch before we walked to the Wind Tower and climbed a couple of easy single pitch trad routes.

Emily and Manfred approaching the Bastille (straight above her head)

Folks at the first pitch anchor.

Waiting for our turn.

Me at the anchors of the first pitch.

Emily waiting on top of pitch 4.

Green helmet is about to climb the last pitch, pitch 5.

Looking down at the parking lot from top of p4.

View from the top.

The pitches on the Bastille

The West face of the Wind Tower

Natural Bridge Climb Day with Emily

Chomping at the bit to get back out to Natty B and climb my new routes, Emily and I made sure it was our first stop on our week long climbing trip. We were able to climb Float Your Boat and Bold Statement before the rain showed up. I couldnt be happier with how these routes came out. Im sure they will become classics someday.

Emily on top of Float Your Boat

Natural Bridge Development

While belaying Kyler on his project, I spent lots of time staring at the surrounding rock looking for potential new routes. Right in between two major areas was a wall with what appeared to be perfect rock and no routes. I scoped it from the bottom and couldnt believe nobody had bolted it yet. Therefore, I packed up some hardware, grabbed Manfred and spent a day bolting. Usually my limiting ingredient is batteries but this day it was bolts. I brought 25 and needed a lot more. Got 3 routes done though. In my honest opinion, I found the best rock out there so far.

Drink Me Pretty (left) 5.10 9 bolts and Bold Statement 5.9 7 bolts.

Float Your Boat 5.7 8 bolts