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Saturday, March 25, 2017

A cache trip to the Village and an Allenspur quickie

Chomping at the bit to get started on the Village this season, Manfred and I hauled the cache out to the Rolling Ramp. Im fresh out of hangers so it will be just scouting and crack cleaning for a little while. I fixed a rope on the Church boulder to try and work on my highball V8-10(?) problem that has been haunting my dreams since I found it 6 or 7 season ago. Its just too overhanging to not have someone belay you up and lower you. I tried attaching the rope to the bottom of the boulder as well as the top to hold me close enough but the climbing is too dynamic for a grigri and just doesnt work. So I tucked my tail all the way to Norris hotsprings.
Sam found some time Sunday afternoon to go out to Allenspur for some sport climbing. Sam lead Look Ma No Hands 5.8, the one right next to it 5.9(?) and the first pitch of another climb 5.8(?). I got to top rope the first two.


This monster tongue of a rock used to be a teeter totter up on the boulder behind it with a perfect pivot point midway. The end closest to us was about 4-5ft off the ground. I was rocking it when the pivot point broke and the whole thing lurched forward and fell down! I was able to ride it like a surfboard for a split second before I bailed on the boulder behind it. Thank god Manfred was sleeping over in the sunshine!
Such a pretty place to climb, Allenspur.

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