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Thursday, June 18, 2015

The Village: Morning Glove; right side development

Saturday I ran out to the village with 30 more bolts and hangers thinking that battery power would be my limiting ingredient but my Bosch is a beast and I got every bolt I had sunk into the rock. I got Radventurous done (60m 7 bolts and a rack), Tradventurous partially cleaned (60m crack, doubles on the small stuff), Cadillac Poops (30m 1 #1or2 cam and 11 bolts), Obnoxious Weeds (30m 11 bolts) and BumHug (x2 30m pitches mixed). This spire is quickly becoming the best craig in the Village hands down. Radventurous will go at 5.10 but everything else is easier, though sustained. I want to finish BumHug (as close to Humbug quality granite cracks in MT that I have found) and clean a couple more 30m cracks climber's right and this bad boy will be ready for the crowds (which I think it deserves). Pillow Fight is the obvious (but not pictured in this post) offwidth that Lucas, Travis(?) or Mike(?) and I climbed about 5 years ago. Ill have to sort through the archives to check on whether we named it or not but Pillow Fight seems appropriate cause Lucas was wearing his Patty Puffy when he lead it and scraping through the face crystals opened a few holes in the jacket and the feathers never stopped falling on us.
A pretty place to spend a day.
This photo doesnt do this crack justice. Its perfect and runs the length of the face. It has a lil shrubbery but not for long. Its parallel and deep.
The lower right side of the glove has 6 awesome 30m routes, 5 will probably be 5 star! 
One of my new favorites that I didnt get a chance to finish. The flakes/crack are bomber!

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