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Saturday, December 6, 2014

Hyalite Ice: Silken Slot to the Climb Above the Dribbles

Got to go to another classic Hyalite area with Kyler and do some ice climbing. I lead Silken Slot with a non-traditional variation to the top in 2 pitches and some unintentional simul-climbing. Then we hiked way up the mountain to the Climb Above the Dribbles. Kyler lead both pitches completely clean and with great style. I didnt feel like I could do the last, crux pitch with any style so I opted out. Thats a big boy pitch that hopefully someday I can lead cleanly. I didnt want to sit on the rope every couple of feet and hangdog the whole way up. I dont know if I would have, but thats where my head was. I realize now that being able to climb that on top-rope could be a once in every 5 years opportunity or so; there arent too many people that can climb it that I personally know. Oh well. Thats why Ill go back when I can lead it. We paid homage to Guy Lacelle's commemorative mountaineering axe mounted on the tree at the base of Silken Skein Falls where he was killed in an avalanche before walking out. I have been up Hyalite so many times that I feel really comfortable, almost invincible up there. Its easy to become complacent or arrogant and forget that you are still in the mountains where they call all the shots. That axe was/is a great reminder that I am very, very far from invincible.
Maid of the Mist

First step of Silken Skein Falls; the axe is mounted on the tree under the left-most icicles. 
The first pitch of Silken Slot; you climb the ice on the right and tunnel under the two chockstones.
The Slot above.
That is actually the Climb to the Left of the Climb Above the Dribbles. Ridiculous names. 
Stoke factor high
Thats what WI6 looks like! You start on the drip in the back of the cave and transition on to the ice. 
RIP

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