Humbug Spires: The Wedge

Lucas, Travis and I wanted some granite multi-pitch climbing practice so where better to go than the Humbugs? Travis and I had been to the Wedge before but Lucas had not. A short hike Saturday morning got us to the rock by 9:30am. I wanted to get 3 routes done that day; a pretty ambitious goal for a climbing trio. We started with the super classic 5.8+ Mutt and Jeff route and sent it with no hang-ups. Lucas was able to link two of the short pitches together so 4 pitches later we were on top. We rapped off and ate some lunch. For route #2 we decided on the 5.8 SouthWest Chimney. Lucas again linked two of the pitches and 5 pitches later, we were on top. The book says we climbed 11 pitches, I say we climbed 9. It was our half-rope system that reduced the rope drag enough to link those pitches together. Lucas and I had been swapping leads all day but when we got to the last friction sport pitch of the day, I wasnt feeling it so he climbed it and earned the VIP of the day. Travis lead the crux pitch on the Mutt and Jeff but had an injury that prevented him from doing any more of the leading. We didnt have the time or enthusiasm to go for another route so we walked back to camp and started the celebrating.

The 600' Wedge

The Mutt and Jeff goes climber's left of the obvious arcing roof in the middle of the rock. You can see the first 3 pitches of the SouthWest Chimney on the climber's right side of the rock. 

Gearin' up

Top of 2nd pitch of Mutt and Jeff. I got to lead this epic pitch.

Travis working on the crux offwidth 3rd pitch.

Lucas sending the offwidth.

Summit.

Two 70m ropes allows for some huge rappels. 2 rappels to get off the front side.

Travis following the second pitch of the ButterKnife/SouthWest Chimney.

Lucas linking pitches in the chimney.

The term 'knife-edge ridge' is thrown around loosely. I always say a knife-edge ride you have to straddle; clearly we are straddling the rock on the top of the climb.

A dutch oven and cold beer waiting for us at the trailhead.