Tobacco Roots: The Village: HeavenView Rock

Wow what a weekend! I was lucky enough to procure a legendary hammer drill from a friend from work for some bolting out at the Village. We have been hunting pure trad lines for a couple years now but we knew the Village has more mixed and sport potential than pure trad. We went right up to a chunk Lucas scoped a year ago called HeavenView. Initially, we threw 3 ropes off trad anchors over the rock in all directions to 'feel it out' and I was the only one that 'felt' anything. The W or NW face is very tall, full of intermittent cracks, and has tons of crystal nubbins. The natty anchors on top were way too sketchy to establish anything from so we put in some chain anchors ~30 meters from the ground. From these anchors we were able to establish 3 stellar routes (so far). Well, the 3rd one still needs some bolts but it has been top roped. 

Thats Travis weighting the brand new chains.

Looking up from gross gully.

We each rehearsed the route I rapped right over to identify good bolt locations. This route, "Less is More" was inspired by Conrad's drill which is tattooed with those exact words.  1 piton off the ground to multiple gear placements to the bolted face back to cracks and on to the top. 

Lucas up on the face for the routes first lead.

Here I am removing my watch again. 

"Trust the crystals!"

The second route I bolted, "More or Less" finishes in the crack to the left of me in this photo. It parallels "Less is More" climbers left about 8-10 feet. Two pitons off the ground to a bolt then cracks until you hit the bolted face (3 bolts) back to cracks and on to the top

Lucas above the 3rd project with the Madison valley in all its glory behind.

A little weight training

Lucas post first roof on 3rd project.

This roof is full of holds and looks super fun. I haven't climbed it yet.

Its not raining anymore Travis, you can come out!

Travis going up the face above two roofs on the 3rd project.

Manfred thinks we're weird.

Really weird.