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Saturday, February 6, 2016

There is ice in the T.Roots?!

Sam and I had plans to crush Hyalite again but, after looking at the Hyalite Snotel and weather station, we decided against 70mph winds in 20* temps. Brr. I mean, we live 30 min.s away so why fight bad weather when we are privileged enough to chase good weather? So off to the 'Roots we went. We drove over to the Ruby Valley and found little to no wind! Now to find that ice. After getting stuck trying to get around a stuck SAR vehicle, we counted our losses and just parked about a mile down the road from our target spot. (After pushing him out of course!) An easy 20min walk up the road and boom, there was Smugglers Seep WI3 300'. Grey ice is thin ice and this baby was grey and thin! BUT, there were safely protectable chunks that I figured I could bounce between using extended alpine draws. We hiked past the first pitch that was not in and I sent the second and third pitches in one 60m rope stretching pitch. I was traversing a curtain of ice that broke and went straight down at Sam. Luckily his attentiveness, my enthusiastic screams of "ice" and a little belay cave saved him from potentially serious injury. I expected the worst from up above but Sam brushed it off as no big deal. One rappel and some 'shwhacking got us back to our packs. Im surprised I have never heard of anyone climbing this gem of a climb before. Maybe now I will...

We climbed the far climber's left flow. 
Classic slab ice. 
There are bolts all over that granite.





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