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Friday, July 18, 2014

Canadian Road Trip 2nd stop: Squamish

After Gimli we cruised through Revelstoke, Pemberton and Whistler on our way to Squamish. We slept in Cache Creek on the way; umm avoid Cache Creek. We got 2 climbs in the day we got there: 2 pitches up a route we thought was 5.8 but it was actually 10d. Then, trying to find that 5.8 6 pitch route again (Calculus Crack) we ended up sending the 6 pitch 5.9 St.Vitus' Dance. Absolutely one of the best granite jam cracks I have ever climbed. We hauled a couple of beers up with us and proceeded to drink them at the top of the climb on Memorial Ledge. While drinking and taking in the scenery, who should solo by but Alex Honnold himself! He asked us where he was; Is Alex Honnold really asking us where he is?! Well, he wasnt where he thought he was so he just climbed on, in his approach shoes. We were so star struck we only managed a couple of last minute photos. The next day we climbed the uber classic 6 pitch route Diedre 5.8. We had to move as fast as the slowest climber before us so needless to say it took a long time to top out. But we met a bunch of cool people while standing in line. Yup, we stood in line. Not something Lucas or I ever do but that climb was worth it! We got back down to the climber's paring lot, cracked a case a beer, turned up the block-rocker and drank the whole thing. A couple of different parties pulled up chairs and drank with us. We got a weather forecast that night; rain rain rain. Thats climbing on the ocean coast for you. So the next day we drove down to Vancouver and took a different route to Castlegar. We got to drive through the Okanagan valley which is the fruit capitol of Canada and we also found Sasquatch!
I think this route is called Rock On? There are multiple starts; We found and climbed the hardest one, not on purpose. 
Looking up at the Apron from the parking lot.

Lucas following the epic 5.9 jam crack pitch on St.Vitus'.
Taking it all in, or chewing on a lemon; I dont know what that face means. 
Throughout my climbing career, my helmet has Always been crooked.
Mt.Garibaldi.

The good die young. This is one of 5 plaques on memorial ledge.

This is a powerful, emotional place. Being surrounded by those plaques really hit home about how precious and short life is.

That is Alex Honnold climbing Memorial Crack after a brief chat.
Paul McCartney is my first man-crush, he is a close runner-up!
Are you kidding me?
We celebrated in the parking lot. Thats Honnold's van with the lights on.
Heading up Diedre.
Some friction slabs to our right and the ocean in the background.
Chillin real hard. Waiting for the slow climbers above us to carry on.
Textbook dihedral. 

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