First Ascent Ice climb in Beartrap Canyon: Bear Cub 50m WI2

A little bird called me one day and asked me about the ice climbing in BearTrap Canyon at the 35mph corner. I replied with "What ice climbing?" The BearTrap is not known for ice, but there is one established climb way way up by the Kitchen Sink rapid. Curiosity was killing me so I had to take a drive on my lunch break and investigate. I was very surprised and excited about what I found. There was ice everywhere! But only one worthy potential climb. I got permission from the little bird to go and climb it so after work Manfred and I went out and I climbed it. 50M WI2 that Ill call Bear Cub for now. Since there was ice in so many places I had never seen it before, I figured the established route 5 miles up the canyon was in. I recruited Travis and Manfred to walk up there with me the following Saturday but alas, 10+ miles of hiking and no ice. Weird.

The bottom half as seen from the dirt road. The upper half curves to the left before the shadowy boulder.

This is South facing ice above California Corner!

The bottom half

The 35mph corner from Bear Cub

The upper half.

The whole climb. Upper half is partially hidden by tree.

I found some Foot Fangs!

CAMP Foot Fangs were the original bad ass crampon. Not the original crampon, but the first one worth a shit. Foot Fangs were brought all over the world and dominated the alpine climbing scene for a decade. I have been hunting for a pair for at least two years and actually found a brand new, never used pair at a local pawn shop and got them for $10! I promptly ran home to grab my ice climbing gear and took off for Hyalite. I ran up to Mummy 2 (40M WI4) for a quick free solo then a top rope solo. Note: probably should never test out new crampons by free soloing with them but its a testament to their lore. I love them. Probably going to spend the rest of the season using them.

Scepter and Mummy 2