Been up to a couple of things lately

I have been doing a poor job of keeping up with this blog lately so Ill try to do a little catch-up. Cady, Terra, Sam, Manfred and I climbed all but one route on the main wall of Red Cliffs (6 out of 7 routes?). Sam, Manfred and I did a bunch of laps on Practice Rock, mostly on Theoretical. Cady, Manfred and I were in Red Lodge and got a tip from a local on an easily reached (and climbed), hangover-friendly  Limestone Buttress called The Ovens where we tagged four of the routes. And yesterday I spent about 5 hours scrubbing Manfred's Rock out at the village. Manfred's Rock is now completely done and has 13 routes on it. It has taken me all season to get to this point. I still have a few bolts left over and I have one more buttress I hope to finish by the end of this season.

Yours truly on Theoretical 5.10.

The Ovens was luckily in the shade all afternoon.

What a pampered pooch! Ice water? Jeez! It was 95 degrees out...

Manfred's Rock is hard to get a good pic of, so here is most of it. 25-30 meters tall. Pure trad to pure sport and everything in between. This one will be popular.

Indian Creek quickie

On our way to Hauser to do some boating and camping, Cady, Manfred and I stopped at Indian Creek for some quick, short routes. We started on the Chief wall and climbed 3 routes finishing under headlamp at 11pm. The following morning Cady got her first lead nailed on the Bearclaw Wall which undoubtedly has the shortest approach in MT.

Chief Big Pockets is a jolly good time!

Cragging (climbing routes that are very easy to get to)

Posing (trying to look good para la chicas)

Bringing Sexy Back (I do what I can) LOL

The view out the camper door. This is life.

The Bear Claw wall has the coolest Limestone features I have climbed to date. Even if they make for easy climbing, its still way too much fun. I solo this rock all the time when Im at my parents' house (just down the road on the river)

Suce Creek Bloc Party and Carnival Crag

Sam, Cady, Manfred and I were all invited to check out a new bouldering area in Paradise Valley Adam P. found so join-the-party we did! A crew of about 10 hiked up together and thank gosh we did; that place might stump a few adventurers trying to find it. But wow, what a place! The Dolomite Limestone (?) boulders are more than abundant. This massive pile of boulders is going to take lots of people lots of years to get a grasp of. The boulders are almost too big and too hard. Massive, up to 60' tall! If this wasnt a wilderness area, it would become the new sport climbing mecca of 5.13+ routes in MT. We were able to find a few great routes on some of the smaller rocks and had a full day out. If you boulder, find out how to get there. Wowza!
The next day, we were all still wanting to climb but lacked some of the necessary ambition so off to Carnival Crag we went. This sweet little buttress is a 2 minute walk from the parking area in Yankee Jim campground. Its got a couple of really easy routes and a couple intermediate routes. Cady got to do her first rappel (simul at that)! We climbed until our feet started burning. We jumped in the river to cool off. Even Manfred needed a swim on this hot day.

For being a boulder field, the landings are impeccable!

Thats atleast a 30ft crack going up the low angle side of this massive bloc.

The Shiba boulder.

I dont know if this one got a name but there is a super fun, V1 overhanging problem next to a V hard.

The Ocean Boulder has one route going up the climber's left arete.

You can see Livingston from the top outs. 

Me leading Carnival Crag.

Lewis and Clark Caverns

One way to get out of the rain is to go underground. Back when I used to do some caving, we always went when there was a bad forecast. So on a gloomy looking day I went back to Lewis and Clark caverns and Cady got to see it for her first time. It must have been 20 years ago when I was last there. I swear there was a lot of wood back then. Now it is a plush cement boardwalk through the whole thing. It was actually bigger, deeper, longer and scarier than I remember. Its Montana's first state park and is absolutely worth the time and money for a tour. Pics are tricky because you cant use your flash until the bottom part of the cave so...... go see it for yourself.

Well whatcha find der Cady? A cave?

Revenue Village: The Tapioca effect (City Limits)

Having been in development mode for a while, it was time for a big climb day. I finished the City Limits Buttress late last season and had not climbed a few routes yet so I lassoed Kyler and off we went. We started on the far left side and worked our way right. I started off by climbing a thin but low angle crack I call 'Chip Shot 5.8 20M' small gear and one bolt. Next we sent 'Custom Cushions 5.8 35M' bolts to s/m cams back to bolts. MC Tapioca pulled the roof in a different spot (climber's left) creating a more difficult variation. After a beer or two we then sent 'Hemorrhoid Ice Breaker 5.8 40M' mostly bolts but intermittent s/m gear. Again, MC Tapioca added a harder variation to the route, this time at the start. The last FA of the day was 'Crossfader 5.8 40M' s/m gear and a couple of bolts. Im pretty happy with the routes. Crossfader wasnt exactly hard or classic but it will do. Kyler then lead Black Angus Orchestra (5.9 35M s/m gear and two bolts) which I followed and Trooper Down (5.10a smal gear to bolts) to wrap up the day. I had never used an 80M rope but they do exist and Kyler brought one. I set up this buttress to be walked-off so the anchors are not in very good places for top roping or lowering FYI. I might go back and put some new anchors lower down on the rock to save your ropes. 6 hours later we had climbed all but one route there (Cattle Scratch Boogie).

H.I.Breaker is the left rope line, Crossfader is the right.

Dude, just shut up would ya.

The Tapioca effect on H.I.Breaker.

Did I mention it was so windy that we couldnt communicate? Pretty place to hang out though 'ey? 'Big Sky' country.

Kyler on Trooper Down.

The hike in was sunny and WINDY!

Me on the FA of H.I.Breaker

The hike in and out is gorgeous (and I know I have said that before). Not too many places I know of where you can see the Madison Valley and Gallatin Valley at the same time (not the case in this photo).

Revenue Village: Upper Manfred's Rock; 3 new routes "Tear Gas Connection" "Un-Thaw" and "The Chickadee Chirp"

This post is mostly for documentation and organizational purposes. Manfred and I had a day to ourselves to make some progress in the Village. We spent a cold but dry day swinging around on ropes, sinking 30 some odd bolts and killing a couple of batteries. I started on the climber's left side of the upper buttress, just continuing my left-to-right development. With so many routes to do, the decision making is easier when you just start on one side and work your way over. The first route done was Tear Gas Connection: mixed 9 bolts plus small gear to chains 30m. Next we have Un-Thaw: mixed SMW gear crack to permanently slung tree to crack to 5 bolts to chains 30m. Lastly we have The Chickadee Chirp: mixed one small cam to bolts, two ways to finish this one; at bolt 5 the route splits left to stay on face (5 more bolts) or goes right to one bolt (protects traverse) to crack to top chains 30m. There should be 3-4 more routes on Upper Manfred's by the time Im done. Its going to be a while before I get to go back out there though. :(

Tear Gas Connection goes up the left side and hugs the upper arete.

Un-Thaw goes up the crack/rope line-ish.

The Chickadee Chirp runs up this face. The route splits about mid way up. You can see the crack variation to the right or the black streak face to the left/middle.

Revenue Village: Manfred's Rock; Climb Day

Lucas, Bailey, Travis, Luke, Manfred and I all spent a colorful Saturday climbing new routes on my latest spire; Manfred's Rock. I finished bolting 'My Favorite Freddy' 5.6 6 bolts and a slung horn to chains 30m while everyone got ready to climb. Bailey, Lucas and I all climbed 'My Favorite Freddy' easily. Lucas and I climbed Manfred's Crack 5.7 all gear to chains 30m. Bailey almost got 'Wrinkles for Days' 5.10c mixed to chains 30m on the first attempt. Then Travis got in to the crux, cleaned a weak hold for us all and took a little fall. After a short hang-dog, he was able to reach the top. I was up next and was able to lead it cleanly. Lucas also climbed it cleanly on top rope. Then I lead 'Basset Friendly' 5.9 (maybe 5.10a) mixed to chains 30m followed by Bailey on TR. Luke and Manfred just spectated. With all four routes climbed, it was time to go back to camp and celebrate. This was Lucas' first visit to the Village in 4ish years so it was a ton of fun to show the original pioneer all the progress I have made over the years. Im pretty sure these four routes put the Village at over 50 routes now!

Travis belaying Lucas up Manfred's Crack. My green static rope is set up over My Favorite Freddy (it starts a little climber's right of photo and trends climber's left). 

Bailey working the crux section of Wrinkles for Days.

Travis plugging gear before the crux face of Wrinkles for Days.