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Saturday, May 21, 2016

Revenue Village: Upper Manfred's Rock; 3 new routes "Tear Gas Connection" "Un-Thaw" and "The Chickadee Chirp"

This post is mostly for documentation and organizational purposes. Manfred and I had a day to ourselves to make some progress in the Village. We spent a cold but dry day swinging around on ropes, sinking 30 some odd bolts and killing a couple of batteries. I started on the climber's left side of the upper buttress, just continuing my left-to-right development. With so many routes to do, the decision making is easier when you just start on one side and work your way over. The first route done was Tear Gas Connection: mixed 9 bolts plus small gear to chains 30m. Next we have Un-Thaw: mixed SMW gear crack to permanently slung tree to crack to 5 bolts to chains 30m. Lastly we have The Chickadee Chirp: mixed one small cam to bolts, two ways to finish this one; at bolt 5 the route splits left to stay on face (5 more bolts) or goes right to one bolt (protects traverse) to crack to top chains 30m. There should be 3-4 more routes on Upper Manfred's by the time Im done. Its going to be a while before I get to go back out there though. :(
Tear Gas Connection goes up the left side and hugs the upper arete.
Un-Thaw goes up the crack/rope line-ish.
The Chickadee Chirp runs up this face. The route splits about mid way up. You can see the crack variation to the right or the black streak face to the left/middle.

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