Kyler P spotted a new drip forming on the Unnamed Wall and being the prolific climber/mixed climber/route developer that he is, a new route was born. Its immediately right of the Thrill is Gone. New routes in Hyalite are rare so when there is a new one, you drop everything and make it happen. Soooo we both called in sick on Monday and spent the day in single digit temps cleaning and bolting it. We climbed Itchy and Scratchy to set up the rope which was a new climb for me. We didnt have time to climb it that day so we called in sick again on Friday and sent it. I did not lead it nor did I send the crux cleanly. With a hang-dog I was able to get through it. Kyler (obviously?) red pointed it. Its definitely the steepest 'ice' route that I have ever climbed. It starts under a roof with a steinpull where you can get your feet way up high and reach some bomber cracks to sink your tools in so you can pull over the roof. After the roof, you are 2-3 bolts up. Following the roof is semi low-angled rock with lots of mini-micro frozen moss patches which are super fun to climb on. 4 bolts later (7 total now) you get to the new ice runnel and a couple of run out stubbies get you to the top. About 35M. It was extremely fun to get to be a part of that climb just because of the history of that wall and all the people that have ever climbed it. I dont think anyone expected that there would ever be any more new routes there but voila. Kyler actually put up a new mixed line on the Unnamed Wall last year too! Another cool thing about this climb is that we found it and climbed it during Ice Fest week, just like my 3 pitch ice route Treasure Hunter in the East Fork last year. Early December seems to be a good time to think outside the box! Since we missed a couple days of work we might call it Irresponsible Science Men. Or maybe G3 or Mummy 5 just to f$%^ with people. Its more Kyler's call than mine.
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| Itchy and Scratchy |
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| KP sussing out the moves through the roof. It sticks out about 5'. Thats the Thrill is Gone just to the left. |
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| You can barely make out the upper ice of the route. |
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| Actual first ascent pic of Kyler on lead. |
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| Kyler post triumph! |
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