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Saturday, September 10, 2016

Revenue Village: Proud Face day 1

I finally got to go back out to my home away from home for some more new-routing. I finished putting chains on Manfred's Rock and moved the cache over to a buttress I call Proud Face. I began on the main face and started work on two routes. These two routes share a start. One or two pieces of gear sets you up to traverse out on to the face where 6 bolts will take you to the top. Or you can stay in the crack all the way up. I still need to scrub the face and clean the crack though. I installed some more anchors to the right and started another traversing route. Again, a couple pieces of gear will get you to a point where you can traverse on to the face. This route, however, traverse horizontally right for 2 bolts before you reach the arete and clip one more bolt before you reach the top (supplemented with one more medium cam before you reach the anchors). I still need to clean the crack and scrub the face. Running out of time and trying to kill my drill's battery, I installed three more anchors before she pooped. I found The Fugitive Crack's (Gallatin Canyon) doppelganger. This crack might not hit 5.12 but I instantly remembered The Fugitive when I saw it and I havnt climbed The Fugitive in 6 or 7 years! Once again, just like every buttress in the Village so far, I cant wait for this one to be done so we can climb it! I hope to finish it before the snow falls. It should produce 7 or 8 more climbs.
If sleeping was a sport, I got your Michael Phelps right here.

The Fugitive-esque crack


The Proud Face. Left of center is too bare for a McAlpine route.
Proud Face is a system of adjacent ramps. Theres one more on the right side.
This will have routes going through the left and right sides of the roof.
This will have a couple more.
The main slab of Proud Face. About midway between grass clumps, you can traverse left to the big shady hold and go up from there. Or you can stay in the crack and follow it as it rounds the corner to the right and up to the top.

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