Tetons: Disappointment Peak; East Ridge

I try to make atleast one trip per year to the Tetons. They're only 4 hours away. However, I didnt make it down there last year so I had some making up to do this year. Sam and I pulled the Gypsy Wagon down to Antelope Flats Friday night and posted up for the weekend. We were hiking up the Lupine Meadows TH before 8am and reached the base of the climb in just over two hours. It is straight up, non-stop switchbacks the entire way. You must gain between 4 and 5K' from the TH to the summit over about 6 miles. Eating lunch at Ampitheater Lake, staring at the 5.7 East Ridge, wasnt exactly putting me at ease but it also didnt scare me away. You can never turn around/bail until you have atleast racked up, tied in and put your shoes on. The last pitch, as viewed from the lake, looked full value to say the least. Pitch 1 was quick and easy and got our stoke factor high. We moved the belay 100ft to Pitch 2, 3 and 4 which are connected/continuous. P2 was super fun though run out. P3 was the same way; great climbing but very run out. Mostly cause I didnt really need to place gear on the easy climbing. Now to P4, the money pitch. There is an escape left to avoid the 5.7 roof crack but I manned up and sent a fantastic, hard, exposed, fun, steep pitch right to the top! It made the climb worth it. The top is literally a 90* lip with the upside a mountain top meadow (of rocks) and the climb falling away beneath your feet. I think its Valhalla canyon to the North of the ridge and its way way down to the bottom of that. We scrambled the last 1000 vertical feet to the summit and rejoiced. It was a great day of overcoming length, duration, steepness, exposure, fear... all that stuff that happens when you alpine climb. We had a perfect view of the Grand Teton and a few folks that were still on the summit. Since it was the park's centennial, we didnt have to pay for entry. Right off the bat Sam and I had the same idea; thats $30 extra dollars going straight to the local pub! We ran down the mountain and made it back to the car in 3 hours from the summit. 11 hours car to car. We were not trying for any speed record mind you. The weather was absolutely perfect so we never felt rushed. Sunday found us working our way home but still climbing. We stopped at Blacktail Butte for a couple of 5.9 sport routes before driving over the pass to Darby Canyon for two 5.10s and a 5.8 sport route. I like Darby a lot, Blacktail will have to wait until I am 5.12 sport shape. We got all we could out of that little weekend trip.

Me leading the second pitch. Route more or less goes up the climber's right skyline.

Disappointment Peak is the smaller, more superficial peak to the left with the Grand massif behind.

The East Ridge of Disappointment. P4 ends at the 90* ridge angle section. Summit proper is the furthest left highpoint.

Looking up the ridge from base of P1.

Looking down P1.

Horn belays were the story of this climb.

The top out.

Getting ready to walk the final talus to the top.

Do the clouds and rays not arch over my head perfectly? Am I an angel!? My mom thinks so...

Looking down at Surprise and Ampitheater lakes.

The Grand, Owen then Sam on the summit of Disappointment.

Nez Perce (pronounced Nay Per Say) and Cloudveil Dome from the summit.

Middle Teton.

Summits of Disappointment and Grand.

Some cool quartz dikes in the granite.

You can just see the summit of Dis. in front of the Grand.

The upper pitches can kind of be seen just over Sam's right shoulder. Thats Teewinot in the background.

The best view?

Nope, this one is better. Why does bacon make everything better!?

The ever present 'where are we' pose. (Blacktail Butte)

Darby Canyon.