McAlpinism MUU Style: Ice Climbing Road Trip (3of6): California Ice

The scouting and climbing that we did on Thursday showed us that conditions were a little warm for E.Rosebud. The forecast had Friday night getting nice and cold which we deemed worth the wait. So after a 'break' day at Rock Creek Falls and an alpine start on Saturday, we found ourselves approaching California Ice. We put our crampons on after only 1hr15min and were at the base of the headwall pitches in only 2hr15 min.s! The guide books suggest allowing atleast 4 hours for the approach! I would like to think we were in pretty good shape, and we were, but the lack of snow and the scouting (I think) sped things up a ton. We dumped the packs out and started racking-up when Devin noticed that he left his half of the draws and screws at camp! But, to Devin's credit, that didnt stop us. We just committed to running it out (large gaps between protection). He had the first and longest lead and did an awesome job of getting us way up the headwall, definitely running it out into high-consequence-fall terrain. We noticed the flow was wet from the base but it wasnt until I was cleaning (removing the screws) the first pitch that I realized how saturated the ice really was. I wish I would have taken a picture of Devin at the belay: my ropes lost their 'dry' properties long ago and he had two 70m ropes of solid ice draped over his anchor chain! From this belay on the far climber's right side of the flow, we were able to escape the shower from above. At this point, I was feeling anxious because the ice was so wet and we were down half a rack but the commitment to get to this point kept me going. Plus Devin was counting on me. I climbed out from the belay, maybe 12-15ft and looked up at the last headwall pitch for a long time. The water was pouring off the top and falling straight down on me and I could barely open my eyes when looking up. I have climbed harder and more technical pitches but my gut was screaming "no" so I down climbed back to the belay and called it off. I dont get shut down very often and I second guessed myself for a while but making it home in one piece is rule number 1. I offered the pitch to Devin but he wanted nothing to do with it. And I dont blame him after the heady lead he just did. We reviewed numerous photos of the climb back at camp and came to the conclusion that the ice was in thin shape. All the pics we found were of folks climbing the far climber's left side up a system of steps. We could see the rock that would create the benches had there been ice formed. Oh well. That climb will always be there and I cant wait to go back for round 2.

The first 6 pics are actually from Thursday scout day.

ERB Lake

Notice the ominous weather? It was like that the entire time we were there and it never got nasty.

California Ice from the trail.

The Gypsy Wagon under the 3 Sisters after we moved it down from the TH.

The Eastern most edge of Froze to Death Plateau in the sunshine.

Clear ice with running water underneath is fun to watch.

Looking down some of the approach gully.

Getting closer.

Me cleaning the last screw before the belay.

"Contemplation Ledge" I called it. I stood there in the shower for a long time trying to work up the courage to just climb through it but alas, no go.