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Wednesday, November 11, 2015

First Ice of the year

Alex and I spent Veterans Day in Hyalite chasing ice. Black Magic, a classic route that rarely forms and doesnt see many ascents when it does, happened to be in so that was our main objective. Alex, an all around strong climber, lead the rock half of the route before deciding to bail; a couple more large pieces of gear and a little bit more ice would have made all the difference. I atleast got to top-rope the rock section which is tons of fun and very protectable. Throughout the morning we watched a team of two, Kyler and Jack, send a new route just to the right of Shores of Pluto. Nice work boys, I guess the early bird gets the worm! We were going to put an attempt on it but they beat us there by an hour or so. Now jonesing for actual ice climbing, we walked up to the Hangover and spun a couple of laps on thin but enjoyable ice. We drove up while the sun was rising and we drove out while it was setting, not a bad day.
Black Magic: Climb the crack to the ice. Simple right? 


Alex almost to the ice.

The turn-around point. So close but too early in the season to be taking unnecessary risks. 

My turn.

Kyler and Jack's new route. 






K and J's new route is the right smear. If you look hard you can see Jack on the ice. 
G1
Willow gully
Hangover

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