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Saturday, June 27, 2015

Morning Glove climb day

Sam, Manfred and I went out for a climb day on the routes that took me 7 days to find, bolt and clean. Im pretty happy with how things are turning out. We climbed all the routes on the Thumb except for Axolotl chimney (previously called Pillow Fight cause I couldnt remember our name for it). Aristocrack 5.7 all gear, Love Crack 5.8 all gear, BumHug 5.8 gear to 4 bolts back to gear, Obnoxious Weeds 5.9 11 bolts and Cadillac Poops 5.10 1 cam to 11 bolts. All these routes end at one of two sets of anchors. Above each set of anchors is another pitch going to the top. FAF1, FAF2, Aristocrack and Love crack all share an anchor with an all gear upper pitch that will go at 5.6. Axolotl, Cadillac Poops, Obnoxious Weeds and Bumhug all share an anchor. The second pitch has one bolt above the anchor to an awesome crack finishing on chains. Everything on the the thumb is 30m. The upper pitches are about 25m. Im a huge fan of all the routes and will give them all 4 or 5 stars. I still have some unclimbed routes on this rock that I cant wait to get my hands on.
The rope is running up BumHug.
Looking up Obnoxious Weeds with BumHug to the right and Cadillac Poops to the left.

Sam on Cadillac Poops.

All smiles after sending 5 first ascents in a day!
So dry out there that even the mushrooms are cracking. 


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