FINALLY got to climb the Lowe Route on Sphinx

Persistence, or maybe stubbornness, finally got me on the Lowe route in climable conditions. 5 tries; one late November last year (too much snow), one with Sam October 4th (too late in day), then Nick T. and I drove to the TH but never got out of the car, we came back a few days later and walked all the way out there only to find no ice and finally last weekend we got it! I think it took me 5 tries to summit Mt.Black, otherwise I have never put so much effort into a climb/summit. Nick and I slept at the TH to get an extra 1.5hours of sleep. About 5am a party of 3 strong climbers started hiking ahead of us while we met up with 3 other climbers we knew. The 5 of us started hiking up to the saddle just minutes behind the first party with a party of two not too far behind us. It was hilarious how everybody pretty much knew everybody! Nick and I wanted to climb the Lowe direct but after traversing to where we could see it wasnt in, we left Marko, Bud and Adam and hiked up to the upper ledge traverse. We walked by two common acquaintances just taking off on the thin Earl Trimble on our way over to the Lowe Route. The first pitch, also the crux WI5 pitch, was not in so we just walked up to the second pitch. I didnt have to sit on any of the screws but I could tell it was my first ice lead, ice climb(!), of the season! We belayed and protected the 3rd pitch only cause we didnt know what to expect; might as well solo or simul-climb from there on up. We tagged the summit about noon in joyous spirits. By the end of the day 14 people were out there with all but 2 of them getting to climb. I definitely plan on going back out there when the whole direct route is in, but probably not this year.

Still unsure if we traversed in the right spot/ledge or not.

Thats either Chabot or one of the Willis' on the Lowe Route 2nd pitch.

Checking out the Earl Trimble

Crux pitch not in

Bootin' up to the 2nd pitch

First ice lead of the year

I belayed Nick up and had him walk up to the start of the next pitch.

The 3rd pitch wraps around this corner and continues in a snow gully.

Looking at the final steps of ice that put us on the plateau.

Victory!

Me hiking up to the summit.

Looking at the southern Madisons and the Tetons.

Nick and I earned our fancy cold beer this day!