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Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Lower Bear Canyon Limestone: Finally finished 'Out of State Plates 5.10'

This route was never finished because I thought it needed to be bolted on lead. But last time I was on top of the rock, I remember a couple of older trees off the backside a little ways. I built a crafty anchor MUU style off of two tress about 10 yards from the rock and threw the rope over the edge. I padded the edge with my backpack cause that rock is sharp and I was using my dynamic 70M since my static is cached in the mountains. Jugging a dynamic rope creates a sawing motion that will cut your rope faster than you can say, well, a lot of things if its running over a sharp edge. I rapped over to where I wanted to put anchors, drilled a pair of bolts, equalized them then put my weight on the bolts with a clove hitch effectively eliminating any sawing motion on the lip of the rock. I rapped down to my last point and added another bolt to create a 2 pitch option (there is a great belay ledge). I rehearsed the route and ended up adding 6 bolts. Now 'Out of State Plates 5.10' is either 4 bolts to anchors followed by 6 bolts to anchors or one long pitch of 11 bolts to anchors. It has to be one of the longest routes in upper or lower Bear Canyon. Im going to try and add one more route to this chunk of rock, someday.
The last 8 hangers of the 100 I bought from Prolite this spring. I hope they have more cause I ended using all of these!
EVERYONE needs to be disguising their bolts/hangers whenever possible. Flat grey works on most rock types.  They look shiny but thats because the paint is still wet. I paint the nuts and washers as well. 
I had already named the route "Out of State Plates' and upon walking by the TH I just had to chuckle; left to right we have Wyoming, California, Washington and Colorado! 
The upper pitch of the route. I use an ascender with a pulley on it and a grigri 2 on my harness to ascend. 

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