New routes in lower Bear Canyon

A few years ago I walked around the lower Bear Canyon climbing area looking for climbs that were not in the guide book. I didnt know if there were routes or not, but I could see a bunch of rock in the immediate vicinity. I wasnt looking to develop new routes because at the time, I didnt know how or have the equipment to do so. But I did find a bunch of rock. Thats all I really remember. So now that I have a little more experience and a lot more gear, I went back up there looking to develop some of the low hanging fruit. And I found some. I have dragged Lucas up there twice now and we found some/are developing some great sport routes. Another inspiration for Bear Canyon was the necessity to bolt on lead. Im not sure why there is an ethic or a discussion about what is better, bolting on lead verse bolting on rappel, but there is. If you can get to the top of the rock and install anchors, absolutely bolt on rappel. But obviously you cant always get to the top of the rock so you bolt it as you climb it. Bolting on rappel is a million times safer and easier. Thats all I have to say about that. I think our routes are atleast twice as long as the rest of the lower area, granted we are on limestone and not sandstone. 'That one deserves a cigarette' is 8 bolts to bolted anchors and 'Out of state plates' is looking like it might be 10 bolts to bolted anchors; stand by for updates. No photos of Lucas bolting on lead or of 'That one deserves a cigarette.'

Putting in the first bolt on 'Out of state plates'

I bought these etriers a while ago and had never needed to use them so I thought I would test them out while bolting on lead. Pretty much Hard Aid climbing. The route will eventually top out where the rock disappears on the upper left of the photo. 

Hammering in the next bolt.

Spacin' em out as far as possible. 

Climbing a ladder

Notice the upper slab just to my left? Thats were we started and 'That one deserves a cigarette' kind of hugs the left side of it. 'Out of state plates' is going to run straight up the middle, maybe climber's right of center a little. Im working on bolt #4 in the photo.