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Friday, September 13, 2013

Hyalite: scouting, bouldering, and figure 4s

Hyalite and I were best buds this week. I was up there T,W,R, and F. Tuesday I was scouting a chunk of rock I thought was virgin to climbers but several bolted routes later I realized this virgin rock is actually called the Head Wall. Its a two sided rock for sure; one side is very difficult and requires bolts (for the most part) and the other side is easy unclimbed (as far as I can tell) trad lines. Kudos to Mr. Carpenter for putting up some 'heady' routes. Undiscouraged, I crossed the creek again and spotted a gem of a giant boulder I hadnt ever taken notice of before. Its right off the road so I quickly and easily scaled it and traversed it. The thing is huge and pretty tall on its up-hill side. Zero signs of climbing but its Hyalite, Im not the first one to see this thing. Sam and I came back Wednesday to do some cleaning, platform building, and sending. We climbed just about every variation you can do on the uphill arete. Lucas and I came back Thursday with a shovel and really did some boulder pad-form (platform) building to create a safer climbing scenario. I dont know where the line is drawn for high ball bouldering but I certainly got high enough to really not want to fall. Lucas and I climbed the route and were very excited about how solid it actually is. I think V2 is the hardest grade we have hit yet (which I did with Sam). Today, Lucas and I wanted to go to Practice Rock but there were already cars there at 9am so we went farther up the canyon to a chunk of rock called the Swamp. Apparently you have to be a superhuman to climb anything there. We ended up busting out Lucas' ice tools to do some dry tooling and getting super pumped. 
Steep N face.

The lower chunk.
The uncleaned, (unclimbed?) globular S face. 

The Head Wall from the street.
Big Foot Boulder
Looking down it from the top.
Sam sending, Manfred sniffing.






This was the next day when I came back with Lucas. I sent the sit start and decided to take my watch off before topping out since I had two free hands. 




This is a tall V1 called Interstellar Space. This day human kind sent a man made object outside of our galaxy!
Lucas 
This is a great way to sharpen your axes. J/k. Im tilling up rocks, working on a padform. 

The Swamp in all its impossibility (except for superhumans). Its hard to tell but its overhanging for the first half. 
Dont worry Kevin and Jeff, we didnt break any hold dry tooling around. 

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