Hyalite Ice: Genesis Area free soloing

The Genesis area is way too cool of an option to have for us Bozeman climbers. In just a couple of hours, you can drive up to the trailhead, climb 3-4 awesome pitches and be back in town no sweat. I have frequented the area so many times over the years now that it is a very comfortable environment for me. I have seen it at its worst (I hope) and I have seen it at its best (?). Its also a great way to walk the dog. I solo G1, come down and grab my gear and my dog. Hike up to G2 and cruise up that. Then on to the Hangover (no pic) that takes me longer to rappel than climb. I watched the sun set from the base of the Hangover. Then I slid down to Lower Greensleeves to wrap it up.

Manfred and G2

Lower Greensleeves

G1

Hyalite Ice: Abandon Ship Project

I went up to Abandon ship to throw in some more bolts but I brought the wrong size socket for the bolts so I couldnt do very much. I was able to add a rap anchor to the approach pitch and cache some gear but that was about it. I walked back over to Cleos where Kyler and Bud were working on that crack line I mentioned earlier and loaned them my unused batteries. I cam back the following Friday with all the correct gear and did some more work. I got up to the high point (solo lead aid) from November but decided that I did not want to proceed anymore. I had everything I needed and a strong head but the rock became scary. I was in a dead horizontal roof and the rock seemed like it was actually a bunch of blocks somehow glued in place waiting to fall. Just like all the ones laying on the ground directly below me. I didnt dare place and then weight a bolt connected to that rock. You would be connecting yourself to too high of a potential for disaster for me. Hence the name Abandon Ship. We will probably go back and try the climber's right side instead of the left side next time.  I bumped in to some friends climbing the Matriarch, Jack and Matt. I tagged along with them and got to top rope to mega classic in all time conditions.

Whit and Nate on Sam's new route.

HUGE bolts. Thanks Conrad!

Kyler on his new route, Whit on 21 stiches to the left and Tate on the Matriarch to the right.

Much less ice now.

Jack on the Matriarch.

Red = Bad, Blue = Next time

Hyalite Ice: Treasure Hunter Pilgrimage

Seeing how I am about the only person who knows where this climb is and that it appears that I am the first person to find it, I figure I better go and climb it at least once per year. So, on a solo day with nothing better to do, off I went. I built a little log bridge out of standing dead trees before I remembered that you cant cut trees down if they are close to a creek. Oops! I dont think anyone will notice or care. The first pitch was pretty covered in snow which means the second pitch is as well. Therefore, I just bypassed them both and hiked up to the 3rd pitch where the real climbing is anyway. I free solo'd the steepest section only to put myself in a terrible avalanche scenario. Pitch 3 mellows out on top and there is the quintessential snow 'slab' to climb through. I luckily got to the trees without incident but every hair on the back of neck was reaching for the sun. Yikes! I have never felt the heebee geebee's up there before but something about that slab had me on edge.

The new bridge.

P1 covered in snow.

Slight of Hand across the valley.

The steep left side with the middle curtain barely visible.