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Saturday, March 31, 2018

Hyalite Ice: Cleos and Airborne

Cleopatra's Needle WI5 has to be the most impressive, intimidating and beautiful chunk of ice in Hyalite Canyon. I really dont have a good reason for why it took me so long to climb it. I have climbed the first pitch a few times to access other climbs but I never climbed the money pitch. So, on the last day of the Hyalite season, Cleos was the target. I was joined by Matt and Gavin. Matt also had never climbed Cleos. While roping up, another party of three showed up and the party began. Gavin gunned the rope up the first pitch and I took the second. It was one of the best pitches of ice I have ever climbed. The other party put a rope up on Airborne Ranger WI5 which was touching down and in fat conditions. I got to top rope it. All in all it was a fun day hanging out in the belay cave with 6 guys squeezing everything out of the last ice climbing day of the year.


Cleos climbs the left side. Airborne Ranger climbs the pillar on the right side.

Sunday, March 11, 2018

Hyalite Ice: Upper Genesis

Sam and I cruised the upper Genesis classics for mileage the other day. We started with Upper Greensleeves left 70M WI3 (probably 4 this day). Then moved over to the Hangover 45M WI3 and climbed a new formation to top out. We finished with G2 for a full afternoon.

Upper Greensleeves in huge condtion

The Hangover
G2

Saturday, March 10, 2018

Mummy 2 with Emily

I got to take Emily out for her first and second days of ice climbing. This was day 2. There was nothing but us and sunshine, weird for a Saturday in Hyalite. I set up the rope then Emily climbed it using ski boots and crampons that didnt fit. My hat is off to her for fighting through it all the way to the top! I cleaned it and that was that.